Never Discard Seafood Roe: Turn It To a Luxury Spread – Guide
Beyond its breathtaking shores and rugged coastline, this island features a extraordinary culinary culture, deeply grounded in its land and ocean. From internationally renowned local baby potatoes to shellfish sweeter and softer than those tasted anywhere else, Jersey's bounty is unsurpassed. What inspires me most, however, is the way local producers and producers are adopting regenerative agriculture, and thereby reimagining the island's food future with innovation and dedication.
A few weeks ago, I had the privilege to host a discussion at a event, and cook a welcome dinner for the speakers, alongside an motivating organizer. Of course, the shellfish were a must on the spread, since they represent the island at their finest: delicate, juicy and bursting of the sea.
These mollusks appear as the ultimate embodiment of Jersey's food future: succulent, plump and regenerative by design, purifying and refreshing the water while helping to create shoreline habitats. Whether cultivated and, importantly, hand-harvested, they are one of the most sustainable proteins we can eat. Yet even, those grew up on the island, don't eat their eggs – an often-seen affliction, unfortunately. Even more reason to champion those coral-pink morsels, that are much too tasty to throw out. Whipped into butter, they turn into sheer indulgence: melt over scallops, stir into risotto or just slather on toasted slices.
Scallops may be a little pricey, though, so I have created the following recipe to turn a single shellfish into a stunning starter (or three into a satiating entree) and, by whipping their roe into smoky paprika spread and baking them in the half-shells with small tomatoes and crushed garlic, potential waste becomes a luxury.
That same spirit of transformation is at the heart of the movement, that introduced a prize offering support to food pioneers with backing, mentorship and access to a marketplace. Evaluated by some of respected culinary experts, the prize will be presented at an forthcoming conference. It's about backing ideas that will help our agricultural networks flourish, from soil to sea, and there's no better a more exciting place for this dialogue to start than Jersey.
Shellfish Roasted in Roe Butter with Small Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Yields 6 as a appetizer or 2 as a main
6 roe-on scallops in the shell
18 small tomatoes, halved
6 cloves of garlic, crushed
3 fresh red chillies (eg jalapeño), split lengthwise, or one pinch red pepper flakes, or to taste (if desired)
50 grams butter
1 tsp smoked or sweet paprika
Sea salt and pepper, to taste
Lemon wedges, to serve
A little samphire, agretti or six tiny pickle slices, to decorate (if using)
Clean the scallops, detaching the roe from each and leaving the rest of the scallop fixed to the shell (ask your seafood supplier to handle this for you, if need be). Put 6 halved tomatoes in each half-shell with a clove's worth of smashed garlic cloves and one half a red chilli, if added.
Put the scallop roes in a container of an immersion blender (I find it's the best method for mixing tiny quantities), include the butter and spice, and blend smooth. Distribute the mixture between the half-shells, making sure every scallop is well covered in the butter.
Heat the grill until it is scorching hot, then place the shellfish under the flame for 6-8 minutes, until blistered and sizzling. Serve immediately, topped with if desired samphire, herbs, a piece of pickle and/or a drizzle of the pickle juice or a bit of lemon juice.
